Sixteen kilometres. That is all that separates Jhansi from Orchha, and I nearly did not make the trip.
I had Khajuraho lined up ahead with a rough plan in my head. Then a woman at my guesthouse, with whom I was having a conversation, raised a curious question: “You’re skipping Orchha?” I changed my plans that night and caught a shared auto the next morning.
It turned out to be the best decision I made on that entire journey.
A Town That History Simply Forgot to Demolish
In the 16th century, Orchha was the capital of the Bundela Rajput dynasty. Once the capital city was vacated, no one built upon it. New business areas did not replace the original city, nor were any major roads built through the historic core.
The city continued at its own pace, and the palaces and temples from that time are here today, still functioning within the context of modern-day life. This slow-paced culture, along with a hint of local heritage, is what makes your visit to this town not just unique but eye-opening.
Three Palaces and an Afternoon Well Spent
The fort complex across the Betwa River holds three palaces, each worth your time for different reasons. Raj Mahal has painted murals on its interior walls that have never been restored; the colours have aged and faded in patches, and that is what makes them more interesting.
Jahangir Mahal is the largest of the three, built to receive a Mughal emperor, and the views from its upper levels over the river and the surrounding plains are very good on a clear day. Rai Praveen Mahal is the smallest and usually the least crowded, which is reason enough to spend extra time there.
The Riverbank at Dusk is Where You Should Be
There are many chhatri cenotaphs honouring Bundela kings along the Betwa River. The banks of the river provide a truly beautiful location to sit back and relax after a long day. From my experience, the surroundings have an enriching authenticity of their own that a camera cannot simply do justice to.
Late afternoon, when the sun has set, the area becomes peaceful and refreshing with a cool breeze. I found it hard not to sit there for as long as I possibly could without a real reason to be there. I enjoyed my time there far more than I anticipated.
Getting Your Bearings Before You Arrive
Orchha is compact enough to walk almost entirely, which makes where you stay fairly important. The right hotels in Orchha will put you near the fort end of town, the cenotaphs, the main temples, and the fort complex are all within a comfortable walking distance of each other if you are based in that area.
The Archaeological Survey of India runs the fort complex, and the entry fees are reasonable. A local guide is worth hiring for at least the first place. The murals in Raj Mahal carry specific stories that you may easily walk past without context.
Worth the Detour, Without Exaggeration
Orchha is a quiet town that exists outside the travel circuit, by definition, and because of this, it can still be described as an old town containing very old structures that require very little cleaning up to accommodate tourism.
The town also has a beautiful river where a person can relax. Finally, with all the history in Orchha, you can easily spend a full day exploring everything that Orchha has to offer without putting in a lot of work.
Sixteen kilometres off my route. Absolutely worth it.
